How textile fibres are subdivided Part 1 of 6

Preamble

In outerwear, it is common practice to wash the finished garment before finishing and basting, especially if made from natural yarns. In some cases, this treatment is carried out immediately after weaving the cloths that make up the garment. This washing, which is often tested during the sampling phase, allows any production residues to be removed and stabilises the fibres, reducing the risk of dimensional variations (shrinkage or warping) in the finished garment.

In this way, thanks to the knowledge gained in the industry, the reactions of the yarn can be predicted and a good end product can be guaranteed for the customer.

However, it is important to emphasise that not all yarns require this step: some synthetic or already pre-treated yarns may not require prior washing. Furthermore, the choice of washing method is always careful and appropriate for the type of yarn to avoid damaging it.

Introduction to Textiles Fibres

The world of textiles is vast and fascinating, and it all starts with textile fibres. These are mainly classified into natural, man-made and synthetic, each with specific characteristics and applications. In this article, we will explore not only their subdivision, but also their properties, production processes, environmental impact, innovations and practical applications, including a historical perspective.

Given the main categories of textile fibres, how do they differ from each other and why is it important to know about them?

Textile fibres are mainly divided into three categories: natural, artificial and synthetic.

• Natural Fibres: Natural fibres come directly from plant, animal or mineral sources. They were the first to be used by man and continue to be appreciated for their sustainability and the comfort they provide.

  Property:

  • Ability to absorb moisture (e.g. cotton and wool).

  • Origin: Derived from biological materials, such as plants (cotton, linen) or animals (wool, silk).

  • Properties: They are breathable, comfortable and biodegradable.

  • Products: In addition to clothing, they are used for curtains, upholstery, ropes and medical materials (such as gauze).

  • more info wikipedia

Can we distinguish them better?

In the family of natural fibres are the:

• • Plant Fibres: Obtained from plants, mainly composed of cellulose, e.g. include:

    • Cotton: Obtained from the seeds of the cotton plant, it is known for its softness, breathability and ability to absorb moisture.

    • Linen: Derived from the flax stem, it is valued for its strength, freshness and ability to absorb moisture.

    • Hemp: Originating from the stem of the hemp plant, it is durable and used for strong fabrics.

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  • Animal Fibres: come from the hair or cocoons of animals.

    • Wool: Obtained from the fleece of sheep and other animals, it is known for its insulating properties and ability to retain heat:

      • virgin wool; merino wool; shetland wool; cashmere wool; mohair wool; camel hair; alpaca wool; llama wool; the vicuna; the Qiviut.

        • Of course, each type of wool has specific uses.
        • if you want to learn more about other existing wool types wikipedia

• • • Silk: Produced from the cocoons of the silkworm, it is prized for its lustre, softness and strength.

What do artificial fibres look like?

• Artificial Fibres: Produced from natural raw materials, such as cellulose, but chemically transformed into a pasty liquid and then extruded into filaments, e.g. we can include viscose and rayon among these.

  • What are the best known artificial fibres?

    • Viscose: Derived from regenerated cellulose, it has a soft consistency and good moisture absorption capacity.

    • Modal: Similar to viscose, but with greater strength and shape retention capacity.

    • Some of the more common ones include  : Bamboo, Bemberg, Lyocell, Modal, Orange Fiber, Viscosa, Rayon, Soia, Ortica, Weganool

 What are the synthetic fibres?

• Synthetic fibres: also called chemical fibres or technofibres are man-made fibres created through chemical reactions. Created entirely through chemical processes, often from petroleum, the most common among them are polyester and nylon (polyamide), acrylic and elastane.
  

  • Origin: Fully synthesised from chemicals, often derived from petroleum (polyester, nylon).

  • Properties: resistant, elastic, water-repellent, but less environmentally friendly.

  • Products: Sportswear, technical equipment, industrial materials and packaging.

Can we distinguish synthetic fibres better?

• • Nylon (Polyamide): Known for its high strength, elasticity and lightness.

  • Polyester: Widespread due to its crease resistance, fast drying and durability.

  • Acrylic: Used as an alternative to wool, it is light, warm and weather-resistant.

  • Some of the most common ones include :
    • Acrilico, Aramidiche (Kevlar e Nomex), Clorovinile, Modacrilico (modified acrylic for flame resistance), Neoprene, Poliammide (Nylon), Poliestere, Polietilene, Polipropilene, Politetrafluoroetilene (Gore-tex), Poliuretano (Elastam)

What Are the Properties of Textile Fibres ?

Each type of yarn has specific physical and chemical properties that make it suitable for specific uses. Here are some of the main properties that deserve attention:

• Length: Longer fibres tend to produce higher quality yarns. Longer and thinner fibres produce softer and stronger fabrics. For example, long-fibre cotton yarns (such as Egyptian cotton) are renowned for their quality.

• Fineness: Finer fibres give the fabric softness and delicacy.

• Strength: The ability of a fibre to withstand tension without breaking. Some yarns, such as polyester, are particularly strong and are used in technical applications, such as curtains and ropes.

• Elasticity: The ability of a fibre to return to its original shape after being deformed. Yarns such as nylon or elastane possess a remarkable ability to stretch and return to their original shape, making them ideal for sports or stretch garments.

• Hygroscopicity: The ability to absorb moisture from the environment, affecting fabric comfort. Natural yarns such as wool and cotton absorb moisture well, providing comfort, while synthetics are less absorbent but dry quickly.

What are the Main Uses divided by yarn type ?

• Cotton: Ideal for summer clothing, underwear and home textiles due to its breathability and ability to absorb liquids.

• Wool: Used for jumpers, coats and blankets for its thermal properties.

• Silk: Used in luxury clothing, ties and underwear for its lustre and softness.

• Polyester: often used in sportswear, furnishing fabrics and crease-resistant clothing.

• Nylon: Used in socks, swimwear and sportswear for its elasticity and strength.

How did they evolve over time?

Textile fibres have accompanied man since ancient times, with technological developments extending their use.

1. Natural Fibres

   • Historical curiosities: Cotton was cultivated in India as early as 3000 BC, while flax was used by the Egyptians to wrap mummies.
   • Ecological advantages: They are biodegradable and, if grown using sustainable methods (e.g. organic cotton), have a reduced environmental impact.

2. Artificial Fibres

   • Historical curiosities: Viscose was invented in 1884 as an alternative to silk, making fine fabrics accessible to more people.
   • Technological innovations: New production techniques, such as recycled viscose, reduce the use of harmful chemicals.

3. Synthetic Fibres

   • Historical curiosities: Nylon, developed in 1935, was the world's first synthetic fabric, initially used for women's stockings and parachutes during World War II.
   • Innovations: Today, synthetic yarns are treated with antimicrobial or UV-resistant technologies, expanding their uses.

What are the Yarn Manufacturing Processes

Yarns are obtained through different processing steps, which vary according to the type of fibre used. Here is an overview:

• Combing and carding: In the case of natural fibres such as cotton and wool, these steps prepare the fibres for spinning. Carding aligns the fibres into a shapeless structure, while combing eliminates short fibres, producing higher quality yarns.
• Spinning: This consists of twisting the fibres to create a continuous yarn. Yarns can be soft twist (for soft fabrics) or high twist (for strong, compact fabrics).
• Blended yarns: Natural and synthetic fibres are combined to achieve specific properties. For example, cotton-polyester blends combine the breathability of cotton with the strength of polyester.
• Texturisation: For synthetic yarns, such as nylon, this process imparts elasticity or softness to the yarn.

What is the Environmental impact of Yarns

The production and disposal of yarns have a significant impact on the environment. Here are some considerations:

• Natural yarns: Although biodegradable, their production can be resource intensive. For example:
  • Cotton consumes large amounts of water during cultivation.
  • Wool can generate environmental impacts related to animal husbandry, such as methane emissions.
• Synthetic yarns: Made from oil or natural gas, these yarns are not biodegradable and can contribute to microplastic pollution during washing.
• Recycled yarns: A sustainable alternative is the use of recycled yarns, such as recycled polyester or regenerated cotton, which reduce the amount of textile waste.
  
  • Regarding this last aspect, it should be added that spinning mills have been producing recycled yarns for several years, both natural and synthetic yarns, along the production chain, at least in Italy, waste is recovered, part of which is reused to regenerate other yarns, while another part is used to produce, for example, soundproofing panels often used in the automotive sector, felts or multipurpose protective mats, often used for work in the home by painters or bricklayers. This is to say that nothing is thrown away from the Italian production chain.

What are the Innovations and Sustainability in Yarns?

The yarn industry is adopting innovative solutions to improve sustainability, research and continuous innovation:

• Organic yarns: These are obtained from organic cultivation, free of pesticides and chemical fertilisers.
• Synthetic biodegradable yarns: New technologies are developing synthetic materials that degrade faster in the environment.
• Bio-based yarns: These yarns use renewable materials such as corn starch or sugar cane to produce alternatives to traditional synthetic polymers.
• Nanotechnology: Yarns treated with nanoparticles to offer additional functionality, such as stain resistance, UV protection or antibacterial properties.

What are the Practical Applications of Yarn

The yarns are used in a wide range of products, adapting to the specific needs of each sector:

• Clothing: Cotton and wool yarns are ideal for everyday wear, while nylon and polyester are common in sports and technical clothing.
• Furniture: Heavy yarns, such as hemp or linen, are used for curtains, carpets and upholstery. Synthetic yarns with specific flame retardant qualities or soundproofing properties are also used in this sector.
• Technical industry: Ultra-strong yarns such as Kevlar are used in bulletproof vests, while polypropylene is used for nets and packaging.
• Luxury fashion: fine yarns such as silk or cashmere are intended for high-end products.

What has been the Evolution of Yarns over time

The evolution of yarns is closely linked to technological advances and social changes:

• Antiquity: The first yarns were created manually using natural fibres such as linen and wool. Tools such as spindles and primitive looms marked an important innovation.
• Middle Ages: Yarn production became an organised economic activity, with the emergence of weavers' guilds.
• Industrial Revolution: The introduction of machinery such as the spinning jenny and mule spinning led to the production of yarns on a large scale.
• 20th century: The invention of synthetic fibres revolutionised the industry, allowing the creation of yarns with previously inaccessible properties.
• Today: Sustainability drives innovation in the yarn industry, with an increasing focus on recycled, biodegradable materials and environmentally friendly technologies.

How Textile Fibres fit into History and Political Context

Textile fibres are not only fundamental elements of industry, but have also played a crucial role in human history, influencing politics.

Ancient Textile Fibre Origins

Textile fibre processing has very ancient origins. As early as the Neolithic period, man used plant fibres such as flax and hemp to create rudimentary textiles. With the domestication of animals, animal fibres such as wool also began to be used. Silk, discovered in China around 3000 B.C., soon became a symbol of luxury and social status, fuelling the famous Silk Road, which stretched some 8,000 km, made up of land, sea and river routes along which the ancient world had .

Influence on ancient civilisations:

• In ancient Egypt, linen was used not only for clothing, but also to wrap the bodies of pharaohs in mummifications.
• In the Roman Empire, wool was the most widespread textile material and formed a significant part of the agricultural economy.

The Modern Era and Industrialisation

With the Industrial Revolution in the 18th century, the textile industry underwent a radical transformation. The production of natural textile fibres such as cotton was mechanised, making textiles more accessible.

Key events:

1. The cotton revolution: The introduction of the spinning machine (spinning jenny) and the mechanical loom (power loom) greatly increased production capacity, making cotton the king of textile fibres.
2. The triangular trade: Cotton played a central role in the triangular trade between Europe, Africa and the Americas, fuelling the system of slavery.

Political implications:
The growing demand for cotton contributed to geopolitical tensions, such as the American Civil War (1861-1865). The cotton-producing Southern states depended on slave labour, while the industrialised North opposed this practice.

Textile Fibres and Social Movements

In the 19th and 20th centuries, workers in the textile industry were protagonists in trade union movements demanding better working conditions. For example:

• Weavers' revolts: In Europe during the 19th century, many textile artisans rebelled against the introduction of machines, fearing the loss of their jobs.
• The suffragette movement: In some cases, women working in the textile industry joined the movement for the right to vote, using their organisational experience gained in the factories.

Synthetic Fibres: Innovation and Political Impact

The 20th century saw the rise of synthetic fibres, such as nylon, invented in 1935 by Wallace Carothers. These fibres not only revolutionised the textile industry, but also influenced geopolitical dynamics. For example:

• During World War II, nylon replaced silk for the production of parachutes and women's stockings, contributing to the Allied war effort.
• In the post-war period, synthetic fibres became symbols of modernity and progress, with a significant impact on mass consumption.

Textile Fibres in Contemporary Environmental Policy

Today, textile fibre production is at the centre of global political debates. Natural fibres, although biodegradable, require considerable resources, while synthetic fibres, derived from petroleum, raise environmental concerns due to their contribution to microplastic pollution.

Recent political initiatives:

• Sustainability regulations: Many governments are introducing regulations to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry by encouraging recycling and the use of environmentally friendly fibres.
• Circular economy: Circular economy models are being promoted, involving the reuse and recycling of textile materials to reduce waste.

To summarise, we can say that textile fibres are not just materials, but living testimonies of how man has interacted with nature and shaped societies. From the silk of ancient China to the cotton of the industrial revolution to the synthetic fibres of the 20th century, they tell a story of innovation, conflict and progress. Today, the future of textile fibres depends on political and cultural choices that balance the need for economic development with environmental sustainability.

Finally, if you want to delve further into the history of knitwear, find the article --> Here

If you want to learn more about the various textile fibres, you can find the article --> Here.