Synthetic textile fibres part 6 of 6

A small premise...

I didn't quite know how to set up this last chapter in textile fibres, then partly I wanted to talk about synthetic fibres that are not often used and at the same time I wanted to bring up all the research I have done: web, texts, 30 years' experience in the sector and more, so little by little I have put down the various things you are going to read, I hope it is a good read and greater awareness, because there is so much talk about Eco-sustainability, natural products and more, then there is the data, which shows where people are going

A journey through textile fibres from the past to the future

Here we are at the sixth and final instalment of our journey into the world of textile fibres. An adventure we have explored together, from natural fibres such as cotton and silk, through artificial fibres and finally to synthetic ones, and along the way we have discovered how much science and history is hidden in the fabrics we wear every day. This journey showed us how important it is to know the materials in our clothes, because behind a label saying “100% cotton” or “polyester” there is much more than just a word. There is the history of ancient civilisations, there is the innovation of modern chemists and engineers, there are environmental impacts and ethical choices to be considered, there is an entire supply chain between raw material producers, spinning mills, stylists, knitters, weavers, garment makers, and all the working steps up to the shop of your choice, which allow you to have fashion proposals for every season, be it spring summer or autumn winter, which can be purchased in both online and physical shops, but there are also companies like ours that do not only weave for external knitwear, but also research to create their own product; starting perhaps, as happened to us, from personal needs, doing research on materials and thus textile fibres, on small accessories that could be useful in everyday life.

Have you ever wondered how many people and processes are involved in the production of a simple t-shirt or knitted accessory?
Being aware of this makes us more careful buyers/consumers: we know how to distinguish a breathable fabric from a less comfortable one, we understand why a certain garment lasts longer and another one spoils after a few washes, and above all we can make more informed and sustainable choices.

In this context, it is important to reflect on how our purchasing choices can influence not only our experience as consumers, but also the fashion industry and its evolution. I have pointed out several times in the series of articles on textile fibres that the industry and those who produce clothing select fibres according to the type of product. For example, for a sports garment one would not use wool or an acetate, but rather suitable yarns such as polyamide, which has breathable, odour-control and strength characteristics, precisely to improve the fabric's characteristics for that type of use. This approach not only guarantees superior performance, but also contributes to greater consumer satisfaction.

After these questions, let's start with a figure that I find very interesting, especially if we talk about Eco-Sustainability, which immediately brings to mind natural fibres, whereas today the textile sector produces and consumes huge quantities of fibres, to be exact 124 million tonnes in 2023, of which 67% are synthetic fibres, which translated is 83 million tonnes (Production of natural fibres continues to lose ground to synthetics in 2023).

It means that most fabrics in circulation are the result of technology and chemistry, not just nature. Understanding this world helps us to give proper value and weight to our clothes and the work behind them, as well as making us reflect on the impact of our purchasing choices.

If you are wondering at this point how fibres are used, to make a long story short: synthetic fibres are mostly used in sportswear and construction, natural fibres are mainly used in underwear and outerwear, artificial fibres are all over the place without particularly standing out in any one sector.

In this concluding episode, we will do two things together: on the one hand, we will focus on a particular type of fibres, the inorganic synthetic fibres, thus completing the panorama of all categories of textile fibres, although these are also part of the synthetic fibres; on the other hand, we will broaden our gaze to the most recent innovations and what the future might hold for us, as a final reflection on the future of the textile industry. We will try to discover these fascinating stories of glass and carbon, to understand how geopolitics is even intertwined with yarns, and to dream of a future where we could “print” or replicate our clothes like in a science fiction film.

Inorganic synthetic fibres

We have already talked about “organic” synthetic fibres - those derived from organic carbon, such as nylon, polyester or elastane, created from oil and plastic polymers. But there is a small group of textile fibres that we call inorganic synthetic fibres, because they are obtained from non-organic materials (minerals or pure elements). In other words, we speak of artificial filaments based on glass, carbon, metals or ceramics. It may sound strange to use glass or carbon to make a fabric, but, however niche, these fibres have had and still have a very important role in various sectors. Let us take a closer look at them, discussing their history, uses, geopolitical implications and some surprising curiosities.

History & Discovery

The first experiments with inorganic fibres go back further than we might think. As early as the 18th century, some scientists were trying to create glass threads: for example, in France Réaumur tried to obtain thin glass fibres to imitate natural silk (Fibre Glass - Chemie-online). However, glass fibre as we understand it today only really came into being at the end of the 19th century. It was the American Edward D. Libbey who succeeded in 1893 in transforming molten glass into extremely thin filaments. Libbey presented his invention in grand style at the Chicago World Fair that year: visitors were astonished to see a glittering evening dress, woven not with silk or cotton, but with glass threads! It was the centrepiece of the Libbey Glass Company's exhibition, made for actress Georgia Cayvan by weaving fibreglass and silk (Clothes made of glass really did exist: photos). From then on, glass was no longer just fragile crystal to be handled with care, but could become soft fabric (when mixed with traditional yarns) or robust construction material when combined in resins (thus fibreglass was born). The technical challenge won by Libbey was enormous: to overcome the fragility of glass by creating filaments thinner than a human hair (less than a tenth of a millimetre in diameter) but very strong (Fibreglass: what it is, characteristics and uses).

At the same time, another material was about to make its triumphant entry into the world of fibres: carbon. Surprisingly, the very first uses of carbon threads date back to Thomas Edison's light bulbs: in 1879, Edison carbonised filaments of bamboo and cotton to create the incandescent filament of light bulbs, basically rudimentary carbon fibres. But high-performance carbon fibre did not emerge until the mid-20th century. In 1958, chemist Roger Bacon (at the Parma Tech Center laboratories in Ohio) was the first to develop carbon filaments with a graphite structure, resulting in a very light but strong material. It was a revolutionary discovery: think that Bacon then estimated a production cost of $10 million per kilo, so complex was it to obtain that fibre! (Carbon fibre - Wikipedia). In the 1960s, research took giant strides: it was discovered that starting with precursors such as rayon (a cellulose fibre) or PAN (polyacrylonitrile) and then carbonising them at high temperature could produce carbon fibre more efficiently. By the end of the 1960s, the first carbon-fibre fabrics arrived: in 1969, the British company Carr Reinforcements presented a real woven cloth of carbon filaments. From then on, this ultra-light and strong fibre began to be used in special applications.

Besides glass and carbon, there are other inorganic fibres worth mentioning. For example, basalt fibre: made from molten and spun basaltic volcanic rock, similar in process to glass fibre, it was developed in the mid-1900s as an alternative with greater heat resistance. Or ceramic fibres (such as alumina or silicon carbide), used in extreme contexts for their resistance to heat and wear, for example in technical fabrics for industrial fireproof suits. And let us not forget that there is also a “natural precursor” to inorganic fibres: asbestos (or asbestos), a natural fibrous mineral known since antiquity for its resistance to fire. The ancient Greeks called it “asbestos” i.e. “inextinguishable”, and as early as 2,500 years ago they were weaving asbestos fibres into fireproof fabrics and lamp wicks that did not burn out (Incredible journey to discover asbestos - ONA Asbestos Newsletter). The Romans even wove asbestos into fabrics that could be washed in the fire, literally placed in flames, and came out intact and even whiter! (A curiosity: Emperor Charlemagne is said to have owned an asbestos tablecloth; during banquets he would throw it into the fireplace to clean it and surprise his guests. So, the idea of using “unconventional” materials to make textile fibres has deep roots, between scientific experiments and historical legends.

Uses in the past and present

If the history of inorganic fibers is fascinating, their practical uses are equally so. These fibers, because of their peculiar properties, have not found wide use in everyday clothing (you will hardly wear a fiberglass T-shirt to work!), but they have become indispensable in technical, industrial, and scientific fields.

Fiberglass, for example, after early experiments in the nineteenth century, experienced tremendous development in the twentieth century due to its technical applications. Around the 1930s, industry perfected methods for producing fiberglass in bulk: thin silica filaments joined with resins gave rise to fiberglass, a strong but lightweight composite material. In the past, fiberglass has replaced wood and metal in many applications: think of boats (fiberglass boats since the 1950s have revolutionized boating), sports car bodies and airplane shells, and modern wind turbine blades. Even in construction, fiberglass netting and panels are used to reinforce concrete or for thermal insulation (classic insulating glass wool). At one time it was even experimented with in furniture and fashion: in the 1960s there were futuristic fiberglass chairs, and some designers incorporated lurex glass yarns into fabrics to give shimmering effects. Today, fiberglass remains crucial, especially in composite materials: to give you an idea, almost 99 percent of the reinforced materials in the world (such as building composites) use fiberglass (Fiberglass yarn is a nonmetallic inorganic material with ...), an absolute dominance due to the low cost and excellent performance of this material.

Carbon fiber, for its part, has earned a reputation as the “hi-tech material” par excellence. In the past it was first adopted in aerospace and military applications: from the 1970s and 1980s, components of satellites, fighter planes and space equipment began to incorporate carbon composite parts, where the high strength and light weight ensured performance unthinkable with steel or aluminum. Soon carbon fiber also entered sports: tennis racquets, racing bicycles, Formula 1 cars, skis and snowboards-having carbon elements meant lightening weight without compromising strength. Nowadays, these “luxury” uses continue (think carbon sports cars, or modern airliners such as the Boeing 787 with a carbon fuselage), but carbon fiber is also beginning to appear in more common products: e-bike frames, ultralight biomedical prosthetics, components for smartphones and laptops, and even some fashion accessories such as carbon watches or glasses. There are even hybrid fabrics for technical clothing where thin carbon filaments are woven together with traditional textile fibers to impart strength (or antistatic properties, since carbon conducts electricity). For example, there are touchscreen gloves or anti-static garments that incorporate microscopic carbon or steel threads into the weave. It is worth noting that a single carbon fiber is only 5-7 micrometers thick, much less than a human hair (50-70 micrometers).Therefore, in textiles the carbon filaments are almost invisible to the naked eye and are gathered into coarser threads. The result is a textile material with interesting properties: in fact, carbon fibers withstand heat and chemicals almost like asbestos, but without the health risks of the latter (Carbon fiber - Wikipedia). This similarity of characteristics (non-combustibility, strength) has meant that today carbon fiber is also used in special protective suits and applications where asbestos once reigned (which is now banned, due to the serious health risks, such as respiratory diseases , as well as its environmental persistence and difficulties in management and removal). Carbon is somewhat the “superhero” of modern fibers, although, it must be said, it has a high cost and limited production compared to traditional fibers.

Then let us not forget other inorganic fibers: basalt fiber has found use in technical fireproof fabrics (firefighter suits, brake linings) and as an environmentally friendly substitute for fiberglass in some cases (being made from natural rock without additives). Metal fibers (steel, copper, or silver filaments) are woven in small percentages into some “smart” fabrics, or steel threads into cut-resistant butcher's gloves, or even metal threads into shielding fabrics to block electromagnetic radiation. In high fashion, Lurex (metallic foil) embellished glittering gowns throughout the twentieth century. So, even if we don't see them with the naked eye, materials such as glass, carbon and metals are woven into the textures of objects around us: from reinforced bicycle helmets, to ski jackets with thermo-reflective inserts, to computer circuit boards (reinforced with fiberglass fabric).

Political and geopolitical implications

You may ask, what do politics and geopolitics have to do with textile fibers?
Well, they do have something to do with it. Take the example of asbestos, that natural mineral fiber that is so heat-resistant but also so deadly to health. After decades of massive use around the world (in construction, industry, even in everyday items such as stoves or flame retardant fabrics), asbestos dust was found to cause very serious lung diseases and cancers. A worldwide political and legal battle ensued: many countries have banned asbestos since the 1990s (in Italy since 1992). However, the issue is far from resolved globally: still only about 60 nations have banned asbestos, and incredibly more than 2 million tons of it are being mined worldwide each year (Lobby asbestos global ban: ONA appeal). This means that in some areas (such as Russia, China, India, some countries in Asia and Africa) asbestos is still used, a choice that often depends on economic interests and regulatory inertia, to the detriment of the health of millions of people. Here we see how a textile/mineral fiber becomes the subject of international political debate: health organizations calling for its total ban, industrial lobbies opposing it, agreements and disagreements between nations. A simple mineral turned into geopolitical bargain!

Modern inorganic synthetic fibers also have their geopolitical implications, albeit in different ways. For example, carbon fiber is considered a strategic material, e.g., for its aerospace and military applications, and its sale is subject to export controls and restrictions. During the Cold War years, access to high-quality carbon fiber was restricted and controlled by the West to prevent the USSR from easily obtaining it for military purposes. Even today, nations such as the United States regulate the export of certain types of high-performance carbon (Export Control - Carbon Fibers & Composite Materials - Toray CFE). At the same time, leading countries in technology production, Japan first, followed by the U.S. and Europe, have invested heavily to dominate this sector. Just think that until a few years ago, Japan (with companies such as Toray, Teijin, Mitsubishi) produced the bulk of the world's carbon fibers, while the United States was the largest user (about 60 percent of the world's production is absorbed by the U.S.) (The History of Carbon Fiber-Exhibition). This created a clear technological advantage for some countries. This has created a clear technological advantage for some countries. Meanwhile, other emerging powers have not been idle: China is investing substantial state funds to develop its carbon fiber and advanced composite materials industry (China invests capital in global carbon composites market). In recent years, the Chinese government has been funding Western companies and acquiring Western technologies with the aim of closing the gap in this strategic sector. The reason is clear: securing autonomy in the production of advanced materials means being able to build aircraft, turbines and technologies at home without depending on others, with significant economic and military spin-offs. The geopolitics of fiber also passes through the rare earths and critical materials needed to produce them: for example, obtaining carbon fiber often requires polyacrylonitrile, whose supply chain involves fine chemistry; or certain advanced composites require special resins and catalysts. Those who control these resources and technologies have global market power.

Then there is another aspect: the relocation and geographical concentration of synthetic fiber production. We have seen how for conventional textile fibers (polyester, nylon, etc.) production has largely moved to Asia. Even for inorganic fibers we see concentrations: for example, more than 70 percent of world production of synthetic fibers (in general) takes place in China (Nylon industry: benefiting from prosperity and ...), a figure that largely includes organic fibers such as polyester, but still indicates a very strong Asian leadership in technical textiles as well. For fiberglass, likewise, Chinese giants are among the world's top producers, supplying materials for the entire planet. This means that geopolitical events (trade tariffs, wars, international crises) can affect the availability of these fibers. For example, if China imposes export restrictions on advanced materials, sectors in the West that depend on Chinese glass or carbon fibers could be affected. Conversely, rising energy costs in Europe have pushed some high-intensity production (such as fiber glass melting) to countries with cheaper energy. In short, even behind a technical fabric or composite material is a web of globalization, agreements and rivalries between nations.

Curiosities and anecdotes

Dulcis in fundo, we cannot end the chapter on inorganic synthetic fibers without a few curiosities that might bring a smile or an amazement. We have already mentioned several (from Roman asbestos tablecloths to late 19th century glass dresses), but let's delve into a couple of them, because they are truly fascinating.

(The Spun-Glass Dress That Made a Splash at the World’s Fair) An 1893 dress made of glass filaments, now on display at the Toledo Museum of Art (USA).

Remember the fiberglass dress unveiled in 1893 (see photo above)? Well, that sparkling dress did not remain just a fairground gimmick: it became a legendary piece. The idea of “dressing in glass” so captured the imagination that for some time there were dreams of using fiberglass in luxury fashion. The Chicago gown, made by seamstress Madame Carmody from thousands of strands of fiberglass produced by Libbey Glass, caused a sensation (Dresses made of glass really existed: photos). It is said that the glass filaments used measured a total of more than 3,000 kilometers long added together! (After all, fiber glass is practically pure silica, one of the most abundant materials on Earth, and could theoretically have been produced in endless quantities.) Unfortunately, or fortunately, the fashion for woven glass did not have much of a following; those dresses were beautiful to look at, sparkling like crystals, but extremely uncomfortable and fragile to wear. Apparently, Georgia Cayvan's dress was so stiff and delicate that she could barely sit up without breaking a few threads; moreover, even though the glass fibers had been made more flexible, they remained a bit pinchy on the skin. In short, a fairy tale princess dress, but not practical for real life. Today, one of the very few surviving glass dresses (complete with matching sunshade!) is preserved in an art museum, the Toledo Museum of Art, where it still enchants visitors with its historic. Today, one of the very few surviving glass dresses (complete with matching sunshade!) is housed in an art museum, the Toledo Museum of Art, where it still enchants visitors with its unique story.

Another curiosity we have already mentioned: asbestos in ancient textiles. Just think for centuries, indeed millennia, mankind used a potentially deadly material without knowing it, believing in fact it was magical. In ancient Rome, asbestos “eternal cloths” were almost legendary: cleaning them with fire instead of water seemed like witchcraft, and in fact asbestos was often associated with sacred rituals or tricks to impress. Marco Polo, in his Milione, tells of seeing textiles made of a fiber that did not burn and were cleaned by throwing them into the flames, probably asbestos from China or Central Asia. And in eras closer to us, asbestos was also used to make incredible things: think that in the 19th century, asbestos cloth was sold as filter cloth (given its resistance to heat, they were used in chemical laboratories), or as fabrics for theaters and fireproof curtains, as well as for the first firefighter protective suits. Only in the late 20th century was the terrible reverse discovered. This teaches us how much the perception of a material can change: from “miracle fiber” to “cursed fiber,” in the case of asbestos, or from “oddball curiosity” to “indispensable component,” as was the case with glass and carbon fiber.

And to end the trivia in style: did you know that carbon fibers were once so valuable that those working in research laboratories had to swear secrecy? The story goes that in the 1960s, in British laboratories where carbon fiber was being developed for the first military aircraft, scientists nicknamed those black filaments “black gold” because of their strategic value. Today we even see them for sale in the form of decorative sheets to personalize your car or smartphone, a nice jump and change of perspective, from the super-secret hangar to the online store.

There are so many stories around inorganic fibers: from space clothes (Apollo astronauts' suits had layers of glass fabric and other inorganic materials to protect them) to hi-tech musical instruments (there are amazing-sounding carbon fiber guitars and violins), every thread has two sides: technology and creativity.

Innovation and future

If you have come this far in reading this article, I thank you, but at this point, after looking at the past and present of textile fibers (from sheep for wool to polymers and high-tech minerals), it begs the question: what does the future hold? What new technologies are emerging in textiles? Will we succeed in making textile production more sustainable for the planet? And will we get to the point where we can create our own clothes with a voice command, as in a well-known TV series? In this concluding section, we dialogue about tomorrow: between concrete innovations already in place and visions yet to be realized.

New technologies in textiles

The textile industry is in turmoil as never before. In recent years, new fibers and materials have emerged that sound like something out of a science fiction novel, but instead are real. Some of these innovations aim to exploit natural resources in novel ways-for example, have you ever heard of fabrics derived from seaweed or orange peels? Yes, they really do exist! An Italian startup has created Orange Fiber, a silk-like textile fiber made from the cellulose in orange waste. They basically turn peels and residues from the citrus industry into yarn, giving new life to materials that would otherwise go to waste. Similarly, there is SeaCell, a fiber made by combining cellulose and seaweed, with even traces of vitamins and minerals from the algae trapped in the fabric, the idea being that they can have beneficial effects on the skin (a “cosmetic fabric” concept). Ancient fibers are also being rediscovered with a modern twist: banana fiber has existed in Asia for centuries (it is made from the stem of the banana plant), which is now making a comeback because it is biodegradable and comes from agricultural waste. Or nettle: unbelievable but true, an excellent linen-like yarn is made from this stinging plant, and some European designers are offering nettle fiber garments as an environmentally friendly alternative (it requires very little water and no pesticides to grow) (New technologies for a sustainable textile industry: what they are and how they work - Digital Agenda).

Along with innovative plant-derived fibers, there are also those of animal or biotech origin: for example, start-ups around the world are producing synthetic silk through microbial fermentation, replicating the process by which spiders produce spider web silk. Imagine genetically engineered bacteria “spinning” silk proteins in the laboratory, resulting in a material sometimes called “bio-silk,” with properties similar to silkworm silk but without breeding millions of silkworms. In parallel, other scientists are experimenting with fibers from microorganisms: there are those who grow bacterial cellulose (like a kind of plant skin grown in a tank) to create textiles, or those who study fungi and yeasts to obtain plant leathers. Then we have bio-based synthetic fibers, that is, created in the laboratory but from renewable resources instead of petroleum: one example is corn fiber (PLA), derived from corn starch fermented into polylactic acid and then spun. PLA produces a fabric also called “Corn Fiber,” which is shiny, breathable and compostable, ideal for padding or lightweight technical clothing. In short, the key word is diversification: the future will see a rainbow of fibers, from high-tech ones derived from sophisticated chemical processes to organic ones derived from agriculture and recycling.

Another area of strong innovation is smart technical textiles. You know sportswear that monitors vital parameters? Or warming fabrics for winter? Here, thanks to special fibers today, electronic or reactive functionality can be incorporated directly into the fabric. Conductive fibers are being developed (e.g., polymer filaments with carbon nanotubes, or coated with graphene and silver) that, woven into the fabric, turn it into a circuit capable of sensing movement, temperature, heartbeat, or slightly warming itself by passing a current (like an electric blanket built into the fabric itself!). We talk about e-textiles or smart fabrics: T-shirts that function as portable electrocardiograms, upholstery that changes color with a command, curtains that emit light as screens. Many of these things are prototypes, but progress is rapid. Imagine being able to charge your phone by putting it in your pocket, because the fabric of jeans generates current from movement-it's not distant science fiction, fibrillar piezoelectric materials are being studied that actually do that.

Sustainability and reduction of environmental impact

Perhaps the most crucial area of textile innovation is that of sustainability. In recent decades, the fashion and textile industry has come under the spotlight for its enormous environmental impact: water consumption, use of polluting chemicals for dyeing and finishing, release of microplastics into the sea, tons of textile waste in landfills. The good news is that awareness of these problems is leading to creative solutions throughout the supply chain.

A first front is recycled and renewed materials. We have already mentioned the example of Orange Fiber (which recovers citrus waste) and new vegetable fibers from waste. But even traditional synthetic fibers are reinventing themselves: one of the success stories is Econyl, developed by the Italian company Aquafil. Econyl is a regenerated nylon made from waste such as old fishing nets, discarded carpets and other polyamide scraps: these materials, which would have polluted seas or filled landfills, are recovered and chemically transformed back into ready-to-use nylon thread. The remarkable thing is that this process can be repeated endlessly-the recycled nylon can in turn be recycled again and again. Today Econyl is used by fashion brands for swimwear, sportswear and eco-friendly carpets, proving that the circular economy in textiles is possible. In addition, a recent announcement regarding Econyl aims to improve the separation between elastic fiber and nylon, after more than a decade of research, in order to improve on a circular economy [release link].

At the same time, the use of organic and lower-impact natural fibers is growing: organic cotton (grown without pesticides), linen and hemp (requiring less water and less chemistry), bamboo and lyocell (cellulose fibers from sustainable forests) are becoming popular choices for those seeking eco-friendly garments. Fabric chemistry is also evolving: for example, traditional dyeing processes consume and contaminate impressive amounts of water (up to 100-150 liters per kg of fabric). Companies are introducing dry dyeing techniques (using supercritical CO₂ instead of water) or natural, non-toxic pigments to reduce water pollution.

And then there's the problem of microplastics: every time we wash synthetic clothing (think polyester fleece or polyamide leggings) microfibers come off and end up in the drains and from there to rivers and seas. It is estimated that 35 percent of the primary microplastics in the oceans come from washing synthetic fabrics. A single washing machine load of synthetic garments can release up to one million plastic microfibers, and every year half a million tons of these microfibers end up in the oceans, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles leaked into the water!  It's disturbing, isn't it? Fortunately, awareness is leading to solutions: special filters are being developed for washing machines that capture microfibers during washing, preventing pollution. More importantly, industry is trying to create synthetic fibers that are biodegradable or improve the quality of yarns to reduce fiber release.

On the level of policy initiatives, governments are also moving. The European Union, for example, launched the European Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles in 2022. The goals are very ambitious: by 2030, all textiles sold in Europe must be durable, repairable, recyclable and contain largely recycled fibers, as well as being made with respect for the environment and social rights (Textiles strategy - European Commission). The aim is to put “fast fashion out of fashion” and ensure that consumers have access to quality garments that will last (Textiles strategy - European Commission). To get there, the strategy includes concrete measures: introducing a “digital passport” for textiles with all the information on composition and origin, banning the destruction of unsold garments, limiting the release of microplastics from garments (perhaps by mandating those filters in washing machines), and forcing producers to take responsibility for the entire life cycle (concept of extended producer responsibility) (Textiles strategy - European Commission). This is a momentous change coming, which will push textile companies to innovate to comply with these new rules, from design (design for recycling) to materials.

Toward the future: replicators and science fiction

So far we have talked about innovations that are already concrete or in development. But if we look even further, on the border between science and science fiction, what could we imagine? Let's try to dream a little.

In Star Trek, a famous science fiction series, starship crews use devices called replicators: machines that can create any object (food, tools, clothing) from pure energy or base matter, reorganizing it at the molecular level. Basically, they “print” a coat or pair of boots instantly when needed. Pure fantasy? Maybe so, for now. But on closer inspection, some of today's technologies are beginning to move in that direction. For example, 3D printing of fabrics and clothes: a few years ago it would have sounded bizarre, while now we already have the first examples. There are designers who have presented clothes entirely 3D printed, creating geometries impossible to achieve with traditional cutting and sewing. Admittedly, these are often not comfortable garments made of soft fabric, but 3D printers are evolving: “inks” based on textile fibers or flexible polymers are being investigated to directly print textile structures. Imagine being able to custom-make a dress based on your exact measurements, printing it at home or in the store with no fabric waste: no more one-size-fits-all, no more scraps thrown away. Sounds like a rudimentary replicator, doesn't it?

Another fascinating idea is spray fabric. In 2022, the Coperni brand's fashion show made headlines when model Bella Hadid walked the runway in her underwear and two technicians sprayed a special spray on her that, as it dried, turned into a tight-fitting white dress (Coperni SS23: Bella Hadid and Spray On Dresses | Hypebae). It looked like magic, but it was chemistry of materials: the spray contained cotton fibers suspended in a solvent that evaporated and made them stick together like a nonwoven fabric. The result? A dress formed in real time on the model's body. Coperni wanted to show “a possible future” of fashion, in which a bottle is enough to design the garment directly on the customer. Although that was an artistic experiment, the sprayable fabric concept could one day lead to home kits for repairing rips (you spray on the hole and close it with new fibers) or even creating small custom accessories on the fly.

And what about robot tailors? Already today there are machines that can weave and make a complete garment without human intervention, guided by digital patterns. We are talking about micro-factories where you go in, they scan your body for measurements, choose a pattern, and in a few hours you come out with the dress sewn perfectly on, made by robotic arms and automated sewing machines. It's not so strange: some companies are combining 3-D body scanners, artificial intelligence for custom design, and robotic manufacturing to revolutionize tailored clothing. In the future, we could have stores without warehouses, but with endless digital catalogs and on-demand production: no waste, no unsold items, and garments that fit right the first time.

At the level of futuristic materials, there are studies on shape memory fibers (which change conformation with temperature or electrical stimuli-imagine a jacket that self-adjusts by opening or closing the weave to let you breathe more if you're hot), or self-repairing fibers (polymers that re-heat if you break the fabric, kind of like human skin does with a wound). There's research on nanofibers that can capture pollution particles from the air, so the drapes in your home would purify the environment. Or immersive sensory fabric designs: clothes that change color or pattern based on your mood or environment, using microscopic capsules or LEDs in the yarn.

No doubt, some of these things will remain only as prototypes for quite a while, but others may enter our everyday lives sooner than we think. If there is one thing the history of textile fibers teaches us, it is that innovation is constant and often unpredictable: who would have told a medieval weaver that one day we would be wearing plastic turned into fabric (polyester) or even glass? Yet it happened. Similarly, who knows what materials our grandchildren or great-grandchildren will be dressed in: perhaps with custom laboratory-grown fibers, or with textiles that offer integrated augmented reality!

And then...

We have come to the end of this journey through weaves and warps, through the past, present, and future of textiles. In these six episodes we have dialogued about textile fibers as we perhaps don't often do: with curiosity and wonder, moving from botany to chemistry, from archaeology to space technology. We learned that behind a wool scarf was the domestication of sheep thousands of years ago, that behind a rayon shirt is the ingenuity of scientists who “imitated” silk by melting wood pulp, that behind the technical polyester T-shirt is the petrochemical industry, and even that behind certain high-tech materials such as carbon or Kevlar are arms races and industrial strategies.

What, then, is left for us to take home from this journey? First of all, awareness. Next time you buy a piece of clothing or a home textile, take a look at the label and try to think back to what those names mean: cotton, linen, modal, acrylic, fiberglass, etc. You will find that you are holding not just an object, but the last link in a long chain of stories and experiments. Knowing that a particular fiber has a certain environmental impact, and as consumers you can steer your choices toward more or less sustainable alternatives; knowing the properties of materials will help you understand why that sweater keeps you warm or why those pants breathe poorly, making you a more satisfied consumer with your choices.

Second, this journey leaves us with so much admiration for human ingenuity. From ancient spinners to modern textile engineers, man has never stopped innovating to dress better, to protect himself, to express himself through textiles. Every fiber discovered or invented is a chapter of creativity and perseverance. Think of the difficulties overcome to create safe and functional synthetic fibers, or the current challenges to reconcile fashion and sustainability, and how many brilliant minds are working on this, a de facto fiber is seen across the board in all fields from clothing to construction, from cars to space, and more.

Finally, there is the invitation to look forward with curiosity. The world of textile fibers is far from static or “already seen.” Just as you read these lines, some lab is testing a new molecule for more environmentally friendly fibers, or a designer is imagining a fabric that no one has ever touched before. The future of textiles could surprise us in so many ways: we could see a green revolution with totally circular and biodegradable materials, or a digital revolution with interactive and personalized garments in real time. More likely, both together!

So let's continue to keep our eyes and minds open. The next time you wear your favorite garment, take a moment to reflect on the stories it holds and, why not, share with others some of the curiosities you've discovered on this blog. From wool to carbon fiber, from spider webs to orange cellulose, the world of textile materials is an ever-expanding tapestry, and we are both its weavers and its beneficiaries. We also invite you to take a look at our products, which were born not only out of our own need, but also the result of study, laboratory tests, field experience and synergies with professionals in the field. Thank you for accompanying us this far.

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