Natural Fibres of Animal Origin Part 3 of 6

Natural fibres of animal origin: wool and other textile fibres

Wool, which has been used for millennia, has undergone numerous transformations to adapt to the needs of contemporary markets. Today, thanks to innovative treatments and new applications, wool remains a valuable textile fibre, both for its natural properties and its versatility.

How to make wool more suitable for modern needs?

Wool continues to be a leading material in the textile industry. But how has it evolved over time to meet the demands of an increasingly demanding public?

• Let's start with the origins: The domestication of sheep and the use of wool go back millennia, with archaeological finds attesting to its presence in various ancient civilisations, it even seems that finds have been found in the Neolithic period from 8000 to 3500 B.C. . Wool, along with silk, was a valuable commodity traded along the famous Silk Road, connecting East and West.
  Besides the Merino sheep, other sheep breeds, such as the Lincoln and Romney Marsh, have been selected over the centuries for their special wool characteristics.
• Historical curiosities: The merino sheep, whose origin is uncertain, but the current specimens derive from the breed bred in Spain in the 12th century, which exported it throughout Europe during the Middle Ages, maintaining its monopoly and exclusivity until the 17th century, making it a de facto luxury good, is known to produce the finest and most valuable wool, in fact jumpers with this type of wool are softer and softer.
• Political and economic role: During the Renaissance, wool became a pillar of the European economy, especially in England, where the wool trade financed the construction of cathedrals and cities. The “Guilds of Wool” were among the most powerful trading organisations of the time, if you want to delve deeper into the history you can find the article here, in History of Knitwear.
  Today, as far as wool alone is concerned, the major producers are China, Australia, and New Zealand; in Italy, production is just around 10/12 million kg, a far cry from China's 340 thousand tonnes.
• Ecological advantages: Wool is completely biodegradable and regenerative. Sheep can be sheared annually without suffering, making this fibre a sustainable resource.

There is the possibility of upgrading treatments, such as superwash, anti-pilling, and water-repellent treatments, to make the garments long-lasting, but what are they?

• • Superwash: This treatment is a special process to which wool is subjected in order not to risk shrinkage during machine washing. Basically, the scales are “smoothed” or coated with a protective resin, preventing them from tangling during washing. In this way, the wool becomes machine-washable without the risk of shrinking or felting.
  • Anti-pilling treatments: The formation of pilling, i.e. the appearance of annoying hairballs on the surface of fabrics, is a common problem, especially with regard to fabrics made of short natural fibres. Several strategies can be adopted to reduce this phenomenon. Firstly, chemical anti-pilling treatments can be applied that coat the fibres and make them more resistant to abrasion. Secondly, during the weaving phase, the yarn tension can be increased to obtain a more compact fabric and reduce fibre shedding, at the expense in this case of the softness of the garment. Finally, the use of yarns with higher twists can improve fibre cohesion and reduce the risk of pilling. However, it is important to note that yarns with high twists are often preferred for technical applications, as they confer greater strength and durability to the yarn. The choice of the most appropriate strategy depends on several factors, including the type of fibre, the construction of the fabric and the specific requirements of the end product.
  • Water-repellent treatments: These treatments create a kind of invisible “barrier” around the fibres, preventing water and stains from penetrating the fabric. In this way, the wool becomes more resistant to water and easier to clean, while maintaining its characteristics of comfort and breathability.

The specific treatments we have described (Superwash, water-repellent, anti-pilling) are commonly applied to medium-high-end products or to products with special usage requirements, such as sportswear or workwear. This is mainly due to the additional cost of such treatments, which affects the final price of the product. However, it is important to emphasise that some companies that produce on a large scale can offer products with specific treatments while maintaining a competitive price. The choice of whether or not to apply these treatments depends on several factors, including the type of fibre, the intended use of the product, the cost-benefit ratio and the needs of the end consumer, at whom the product is aimed.

What kind of uses have been made over the years?

In addition to outdoor clothing, wool has been used for technical clothing, thanks to its thermo-regulating properties, it is used in the production of sportswear for outdoor activities; in furnishings, on the other hand, it has been used for example for carpets, sofas and armchairs, which in wool offer comfort and warmth, as well as acoustic and antistatic properties; it is also used in the automotive industry, for seat covers and interiors, thanks to its ability to absorb noise and vibrations, these are often seen in the form of acoustic mats precisely for noise reduction, used under the bonnet inside the doors or under the roof.

How and when was it discovered?

Wool was discovered in antiquity, when man began breeding sheep for meat, milk and fur. As early as the Neolithic period, animal fibres were processed to create clothing. Over time, spinning and weaving techniques improved, culminating in the selective breeding of sheep breeds, such as merino, to obtain ever finer and softer fibres.

What are its properties as a fibre?

• Elasticity: the wool deforms without breaking, returning to its original shape.

• Composition: wool is mainly composed of keratin, a fibrous protein that gives it elasticity, strength and the ability to absorb moisture

• Regenerated wool: we often talk about reuse, it is also possible to recycle wool either from old garments, or from production waste to create new yarns, or soundproof fabrics reducing waste.
• Biodegradability: Wool decomposes naturally, reducing environmental impact. It can take 3 to 12 months to fully decompose under optimal conditions. In some cases, especially if the wool has been treated or environmental conditions are unfavourable, decomposition may take up to 2 years. It is important to emphasise that wool, during its decomposition, releases useful plant nutrients, such as nitrogen and sulphur, into the soil. For this reason, wool can also be used as a natural fertiliser or for soil mulching.
• UV resistance: Wool offers natural protection against ultraviolet radiation. Wool fibres contain amino acids that absorb a significant portion of UV radiation, in particular UV-B radiation, which is the most harmful to the skin.
• Thermoregulation: Insulates from the cold and disperses excess heat, in bio-building as it is elastic and breathable, thanks to its fibre, it acts as an excellent natural air conditioner, not to be confused with the widely used panels of rock wool and glass wool, both are artificial products, obtained for glass wool from the fusion of glass and sand, for rock wool from the fusion of volcanic rocks, but they are not biodegradable and are often treated as special waste to be disposed of. Returning to sheep's wool, it has hygroscopic properties that help regulate humidity inside rooms in a completely natural way, limiting the formation of condensation. In addition, wool boasts a high sound-absorbing capacity: panels made of this material are able to absorb about 50% of external noise. When exposed to a flame, it slowly carbonises without melting and releasing toxic substances.

• Breathability: Promotes air circulation, keeping the skin dry, is highly breathable even when used in large thicknesses.

• Water resistance: Thanks to lanolin, it is naturally water-repellent, generally absorbing 33% of its weight without giving the feeling of wetness.

• Flame retardant: It does not catch fire easily and is self-extinguishing, in fact it has a very high flash point, at 130° C. it starts to decompose, it can however be exposed for short periods up to 200° C., where at this temperature in industry thermo-fixing is carried out.

• Let's call it the dark side: unfortunately it has enemies, at home especially if the garment is not used for a long time the first enemy is the Moths, they feed on the keratin present in the fibre, it is easy to find circular holes in the garment, to avoid this at least once a year they should be washed, the other enemies are us, the garments should not be washed with aggressive detergents, if the garments turn yellow or break easily then we have done damage; another damage we can cause is to wash the garments not following the washing label, which generally indicates by hand or at a maximum of 30°C. because a higher temperature can cause felting, in this case we can try to use hair conditioner or fabric softener, leave it for at least 10/15 minutes maximum 30 and then rinse well and lay the garment on an even surface, trying to pull it to the previous size and cross your fingers, this is because it is a do-it-yourself method that does not always work.

What kinds of uses have been made of this type of yarn over the centuries?

• Antiquity: In antiquity, wool was a valuable material for making tunics and cloaks in Mesopotamia, Egypt and Rome. Among the Romans, these garments, particularly togas and cloaks, had a symbolic value, indicating the social status of the wearer. The Romans also contributed significantly to the advancement of wool spinning and weaving techniques.

• Middle Ages: Monks' Clothing and Blankets; Wool was the main fabric for clothing, blankets and carpets. European monasteries were often centres of wool production.

• Industrial Revolution: With the advent of textile machinery, wool became accessible to a wider public, while maintaining an important role in high quality clothing.

• Modern age: Industrial production of high quality clothing, carpets and fabrics; today wool is used not only for clothing, i.e. jumpers, coats, scarves and socks, but also for winter sports uniforms, technical socks and outdoor clothing, and then for carpets, blankets and padding, furniture, thermal and acoustic insulation, and even in medical applications such as bandages, in construction for thermal and acoustic insulation for walls and ceilings

• Innovations: Fire retardant fabrics for planes, trains and public buildings.

Complete List of Other Fibres of Animal Origin

1. Cashmere: Originating from the Kashmir regions (between India, Pakistan and China), it is one of the most valuable and expensive fibres, known for its extreme softness and lightness. It is used for high fashion clothing. Obtained from the Hircus goat subspecies, it is a very fine and valuable fibre, used for the production of luxury clothing.

2. Mohair: Produced from the hair of Angora goats, it is a lustrous and durable fibre often used in knitwear, luxury and upholstery fabrics.

3. Alpaca: Originating in South America, alpaca wool is light, warm and lanolin-free, making it hypoallergenic. Similar to cashmere, but more durable, it is obtained from the hair of the alpaca, a South American camelid.

4. Angora wool: Originating from Angora rabbits, it is a soft and warm fibre, often blended with other fibres to increase softness.

5. Vicuna: Considered the rarest and most expensive fibre in the world, it comes from a South American camelid and is known for its fineness and warmth.

6. Silk: Although not an animal fibre in the traditional sense, silk is produced by silkworms and is used for fine, lustrous fabrics. Produced from the cocoons of the silkworm, it is known for its lustre, softness and strength.

7. Camel hair: Used for blankets and coats, it is light and thermoregulating.

8. Yak hair: Originating from Central Asia, it is a warm and durable fibre, often used for blankets and carpets.

Wool, with its rich history and unique properties, continues to be an important textile fibre. Thanks to modern innovations and treatments, it adapts perfectly to contemporary needs while retaining its traditional charm. In addition, other animal fibres such as cashmere, alpaca and silk enrich the textile landscape, offering luxury and sustainability options.

In fact, animal fibres represent an extraordinary asset for the textile industry. Thanks to research and innovative treatments, these fibres continue to play a leading role in traditional and modern fields, meeting both sustainability and technological requirements.

Summary of natural fibres of animal origin

1. Silk:

   • Origin: Silkworm cocoon.

   • Properties: Lustre, softness, strength.

   • Uses: luxury clothing, lingerie, accessories.

2. Cashmere:

   • Origin: Capra hircus (Tibetan and Mongolian).

   • Properties: extreme softness, warmth, lightness.

   • Uses: jumpers, scarves, coats.

3. Mohair:

   • Origin: Angora goat.

   • Properties: Brilliance, elasticity, resistance.

   • Uses: Clothing, interior fabrics.

4. Alpaca:

   • Origin: Andean camelids.

   • Properties: warmth, lightness, hypoallergenic.

   • Proprietà: calore, leggerezza, ipoallergenicità.

5. Vicugna:

   • Origin: Andean camelid.

   • Properties: Silky finish, lightness.

   • Uses: Luxury fabrics.

6. Angora:

   • Origin: Angora rabbit.

   • Properties: Softness, insulating capacity.

   • Usi: Maglieria, calze.

7. Yak:

   • Origin: Tibetan cattle.

   • Properties: Resistance, heat.

   • Uses: knitwear, blankets.

8. Camel:

   • Origin: Camel hair.

   • Properties: Heat, resistance.

   • Uses: coats, scarves, blankets.

For the sake of completeness we might add:

• Horse:

  • Origin: Horsehair and hair.

  • Properties: Elasticity, hardness.

  • Uses: stuffing, brushes, upholstery, stringed instrument bows.

• Bison:

  • Origin: American Bison.

  • Properties: warmth, lightness.

  • Uses: jumpers, scarves.

if you missed “natural fibres of plant origin” you can find the article here

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